Shawls have been part of traditional Russian Women’s costumes since the 18th Century. The original home of the shawl was Kashmir in India. In the 19th century Russian manufacturers introduced worsted weaving yarns and began producing their own garments.

Pavlovo Posad woolen shawls and scarves

The most well known Russian shawls are those made in Pavlovo Posad factory and this is natural - they are so colorful, they have such variety of designs that any woman can make selection.
These shawls are made of pure 100% wool at the Pavlovo Posad factory, in a small old Russian town not far from Moscow. The factory works since 1812 and has long traditions and valueless experience. Skillfully artists designed many patterns of shawls and continue to develop new shawl designs. The shawls are soft as were made of pure wool fabric, paints which are used for printing of shawls are bright and very stable.
There are many different designs of such shawls, different background color. The shawl can have woolen or silk fringe, some shawls do not have fringe. As well these shawls differ by density of fabric - regular dansity of so called double dencity.

Pavlovo Posad is an ancient Russian town about 60 kilometers from Moscow. It is well known as the home of hereditary textile workers. The Pavlovo Posad factory for production of woolen shawls was founded in 1795 by Ivan Labsin. His business was continued by his sons and grandsons. Thus in the middle on 19-th century the first fast-printed shawls were produced on result of business activity of Jakov Labsin - a great-grandson of Ivan Labsin.
In the very beginning shawls were woven of yarns. It took much time to produce a shawls and as a result those shawls were quite expensive. A single shawl could take up to 18 months to complete. During the 19th century different and more cost effective methods were used in the manufacturer. Highly skilled weavers and designers were sought after as the demand grew.
Gradually printed woolen shawls replaced costly color woven shawls. Some of the elaborate color weaving was replaced by printed designs. Until late in the 19th Century shawls were decorated by means of hard wood block printing. A different wood block was used for each color.
Metal plate printing replaced block printing in the late 19th century and roller printing soon followed although fewer colors were used. Designers and artists of Pavlovo Posad produced harmonious combinations with rich color schemes usually leaving the center space blank. Gradually the shawls took on a wider range of designs taking into consideration the tastes of different people. The Pavlovo Posad shawls were always in large demand.
After revolution in 1917 the factory was nationalized. In that time due to the lack of raw materials and fuel the factories were closed but soon after that period passed Pavlovo Posad was again producing the sought after shawl. In the 1937 Paris World Fair Pavlovo Posad was awarded the Grand Prix of the whole exhibition. Pavlovo Posad was internationally recognized as the masters of shawl design and quality. After the Second World War a new generation of designers won the Major award at the Brussels World Trade Fair in 1959.

 Orenburg goat down knitted shawls, scarves, tippets and cobwebs (pautinka)

The famous Orenburg goat down shawls, scarves, tippets, cobwebs are unique utilitarian pieces of woman costume that in the same time are real pieces of art. An Orenburg shawl became a symbol of Russian tenderness of feeling and cordiality and it is reflected in Russian romance "Orenburg down shawl". Orenburg goat shawl - this is elegancy, finesse, exility, beauty. It may embellish evening woman dress, it is a nice addition to business style costume, it is an utilitarian and decorative part of everyday dress. An Orenburg shawl emphasizes fascination of youth and accentuates nobility of maturity, it imparts an unique originality mystique to woman's figure.

The first mentions about Orenburg shawls date as far as 17-th century. Russians that settled in Ural Mountain area felt necessity in warm clothing made of goat down to stand severe winters. The famous Orenburg woven shawls are made entirely by hand. They are handspuned and hand knitted from the finest down of goats in the region of Orenburg near Ural Mountains.

The shawls have natural colors of the goats and can be white, gray or brown. Prices depend on size, on quality of threads used for making of the shawls and, of course, on quality of work. Each woman makes her own shawls with her own lacy ornaments and patterns of the shawl. The softer and finer the fiber is, the more valuable is the shawl. In Russia with cold and long winters women used to wear these shawl everyday especially in country area. Each woman has at least two shawls - one for everyday usage and other one for holidays. Shawls used for everyday often are plied with silk for strength so that they can withstand daily use.

Many people ask what kind of material (wool) is used fro knitting of the Orenburg shawls. Authentic Orenburg shawls are made of goat down. Sometimes people by mistake call the down "cashmere" but this is not exactly so. People in Orenburg area breed species of goats that give not only milk but perfect soft and light down. These goats are quite fastidious for food and for conditions of living. Once during a year a goat bears one goat baby, seldom 2 or even 3. In the beginning of winter when down gets enough long and with enough quality women comb the goats. This is hard work as it down fibers should be comb separately. In average one goat brings about 2 LB of down. Then the down is washed, is sorted and later is spinned for further knotting.

This image shows how a shawl can be stretched through a wedding ring

Goat down shawls are durable in usage, the more shawl is used the more attractive it is. Of course, it is necessary to follow some simple rules that help to keep a shawl in good condition. It is advised to use dry cleaning. At a pinch it can be washed in not hot water using washing powder for wool. Alternatively, it can be washed in warm sudsy water.
Do not twist a shawl and always dry flat, away from heat. This simple rules will make your Orenburg shawl a real family heirloom.

Russian Orenburg shawls are really hand-made, they are produced in limited amount and each shawl is different and unique.